Morris Srebnik, PhD, Department of Natural Products, School of Pharmacy, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem and Claes David. Enk, MD, Department of Dermatology, Hadassah University Hospital.
Background
Cosmeceuticals (a combination between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals) are topically applied, but they contain ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin. Cosmeceuticals are the fastest-growing segment of the natural personal care industry and are not subject to review by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Companies prefer to introduce new compounds emphasizing additional properties, that classify them as cosmetic ingredients rather than drugs (sunscreens are regarded in the United States as OTC drugs and require filing of NDA for new absorbers). Such additional properties could be anti-oxidant activity that promotes anti-aging properties, enhancing of UV screening of currently registered products (SPF boosting), or enhanced photostability.
Medical and Cosmetic Need: Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun has long been linked to sunburn (UVB), ageing and skin cancer (UVA). Younger skins are more sensitive to sun. The UV protection offered by sun care and daily wear cosmetics is therefore increasingly being viewed as important. An increasing number of cosmetic formulations are required to deliver broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Although there are several UVB absorbent available, there is a strong need for novel and safe UVA absorbents. It has been recognized that natural extracts may have beneficial properties as cosmetics, as various plants and bacteria have adapted to living under the sun's radiation by producing UV-absorbing molecules.
There is a wide interest in novel and highly effective UVA-absorbing molecules for human application.
Market
The cosmetic market in general and the sunscreen market in particular are very competitive, constantly seeking innovative products and new ideas. Cancer risk and the aging effects of unprotected sun exposure have led to increasingly sophisticated formulations. To achieve very effective sunscreens with high sun protection factors, cosmetics manufacturers can employ multiple UV absorbers, within one and the same product formulation.
In 2004, the global market for suncare products reached $4.7 billion, an increase of 11 percent on the figure for 2004. The sunscreen market in the EU was valued at 1.9 billion euros in 2005 in terms of retail sales, a 4 percent increase on 2004 sales.
The Innovation
The inventors have identified and isolated a molecule belonging to the mycosporine-like amino acide (MMA) family with UV absorbing properties. Modifications of the identified molecular structure through simple organic synthesis allow tuning of the UV absorbing properties (including UVA), as well as including additional desired properties (multiple functionality), such as antioxidant activity, adaptation of physical character of the molecule (liquid oil vs. solid) and solubility.
R&D Program
Analogues of the naturally occurring UV-A absorbers are synthesized, to allow production in a stable, reproducible and cost effective manner. Candidates will be screened against a combination of desired properties, to select the best lead compounds.
Milestones:
- Synthesis of candidate compounds in small quantities (10 g). Screening for desired properties: anti radical activity, anti bacterial effect, activity as photostabilizer, easy to formulate (effective solvent or good emollient).
- Establishment of lead compound with multiple activity and maximum compatability that can be combined to complement other UV absorbers.
- Larger scale synthesis (100 g); Completion of technical files for costeffective lead compound production process.
- Toxicological studies (toxicity profile) to evidence safety for EU approval as cosmetic product.
Contact
Yuval Kupitz,
Business Development, Pharmaceuticals
Tel: +972-2-6778364
Email: yuvalk@hadasit.co.il
